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If you can afford those appliances I wouldn't worry too much, your main cost will be the materials and details you chose for countertop, cabinets, flooring the seconod wold be how much your changing the layout of plumbing, electrical. Id take a guess n estimate 6k countertop, 12k cabinets, 6k floor n back splash

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Originally Posted by Bode-ist

~$20k before appliances if you aren't going super high end finishes/cabinets.

I think you guys are really low. The kitchen pictured is well over $50k.

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06-30-2016 , 08:30 PM

#2452

nyc999

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Quote:

Originally Posted by zikzak

I think you guys are really low. The kitchen pictured is well over $50k.

Is it due to cabinet/appliance quality, or just the overall amount of work and materials? My plan was to give the kitchen designer three different budgets and see what each looks like, though definitely don't want to go over 50.

Also, are you assuming with or without labor costs?

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06-30-2016 , 09:17 PM

#2453

zikzak

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All of the above. It's a high end kitchen with expensive everything. I'm including labor.

If you just like the basic layout and you're not too discriminating you can get something that kinda sorta resembles that for much less, but you'll never get the wow factor of those pics because all the little details that create it cost a crapload of money. Those retro cabinet hinges alone probably added several hundred dollars to the cost.

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06-30-2016 , 09:23 PM

#2454

microbet

Solar Powered

Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 56,600

Yeah, Kitchens are frighteningly expensive. A friend of mine does Kitchens and Baths and the dollars involved are enticing and frightening. I've sold a couple bathrooms (I have a general and electrical license, and his crew did the work) and I'd be very scared of underbidding if I didn't have someone who knew what they were doing helping.

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06-30-2016 , 10:25 PM

#2455

nyc999

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Thanks - kinda sorta is somewhat my thinking - mainly the layout, colors, not all the little details that make it magazine spread worthy. Guess I'll be at the top of my price range.

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07-25-2016 , 02:11 PM

#2456

#Thinman

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there was a rumble and then.....

Spoiler:

suzzer, ,did you end doing the refi? closing mine wednesday. no more ****ing pmi. lost $700 off my monthly and kept my rate (3.6)

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07-25-2016 , 07:49 PM

#2457

crdjeep

old hand

Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,417

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuckyK

As a Commercial contractor (Not an owner) that also does residential, and an avid home remodeler who has done installed two floors (One Floating and one Nail Down), I would recommend installing your cabinet bases directly over the granite.

My argument is that since you're floating a 3/8" engineered floor over the granite, the weight of the cabinets will cause some indenting and shifting of your floating floor.

New construction would build the cabinets on top of the sub floor, then run the flooring up to the 2x bases. Since you're floating, you'll need the 1/2" gap between your base and the floor edge to help with expansion/contraction throughout the year. Building the cabinets on top of your floating floor could cause a buckling problem, and you could find yourself with some peaks at each plank edge.

My contractor installed the solid 3/4" red oak flooring all the way under the cabinets to the wall.

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07-25-2016 , 08:02 PM

#2458

crdjeep

old hand

Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,417

Here is our kitchen, it was expensive, Soapstone counter tops, which aren't oiled/waxed in the pics.

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07-25-2016 , 08:29 PM

#2459

zikzak

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Sounds like it's too late, but I think soapstone looks better natural. Let it age and develop its own character. You also don't need to freak out as much about trying to keep it perfect that way.

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07-25-2016 , 09:09 PM

#2460

crdjeep

old hand

Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,417

Quote:

Originally Posted by zikzak

Sounds like it's too late, but I think soapstone looks better natural. Let it age and develop its own character. You also don't need to freak out as much about trying to keep it perfect that way.

It's just a PITA if it's not. Also after a couple of months you need to do it again, b/c it's evaporated or w/e.

We love the way it looks after it's done.

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07-25-2016 , 09:16 PM

#2461

nyc999

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Nice looking kitchen

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07-26-2016 , 08:48 AM

#2462

crdjeep

old hand

Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,417

thanks, very happy with it. We had the local Amish build the cabinets, and my contractor install it. he bitched about it being over built.. lol i guess that's a good thing.

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07-26-2016 , 06:10 PM

#2463

electricladylnd

Pooh-Bah

Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 5,549

Quote:

Originally Posted by crdjeep

thanks, very happy with it. We had the local Amish build the cabinets, and my contractor install it. he bitched about it being over built.. lol i guess that's a good thing.

The cabinets were probably heavy a sht. Did the Amish do the finishing to or did your contractor paint them?

In SoCal custom cabinets are about $300-$400 a linear foot and some charge for all the different moldings or if you want fluted legs, glass doors etc. So that one kitchen(post 2246) is easily $50k plus. That Range is probably $5-6k before tax and that wood floor is expensive.

When ever I do laminate floor or glue down around cabinets, I install cabinets first and put my toe kick on after the floor or I will put shoe molding if cabinets were existing.

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07-26-2016 , 07:12 PM

#2464

crdjeep

old hand

Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,417

Quote:

Originally Posted by electricladylnd

They were 3/4" plywood box's, soft close hinges and drawers, and were painted at the Amish shop. It's like a very hard enamel coating. Not something DIY. It's very very smooth.

The amish supplied this white wax pen thingy to fix nicks, which works awesome btw. Didn't have to use it yet, but my contractor used it to cover up nail holes on the crown and toe kick base. It sells on amazon for 7$.

The cabinets and island in the kitchen were a little more then 13k plus install of 1,200, counter top not included. Lowes prices are actually outrageous for what you get. Junk for starters.

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07-26-2016 , 08:03 PM

#2465

electricladylnd

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Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 5,549

Quote:

Originally Posted by crdjeep

Good price, looks like you have almost 50 linear feet of cabinets. Also, plywood isn't that heavy, I have built cabinets(the boxes) out of 3/4" Melamine and 3/4" Plywood, plywood is a heck of a lot lighter.

We did a huge kitchen from Lowes bought cabinets and the homeowners could have had custom cabinets with a badass stain for around the price they paid. It turned out nice but the uppers were 2 stacked on top of each other because they had 10 or 12' ceilings but you had all the seems where all the cabinets met. Custom, I could have had 75% less seems.

I love when homeowners do custom cabinets, even if someone else is doing them.

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07-26-2016 , 09:33 PM

#2466

crdjeep

old hand

Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,417

Quote:

Originally Posted by electricladylnd

The cabinets were heavy because some of them were built in one cluster. IE: the left side of the sink. it must of weighed 300 lbs. plus . the island must of weighted 350 lbs. it was one unit. the right side of the fridge was one unit. the cabinet around the fridge was one long board with the cabinet above it.

I helped my contractor bring them inside from the garage, it was really cold and the amish guy didn't want them out there for more then 2 - 3 days b/c of the paint/enamel, w/e it is, was just put on a couple of days before. My garage is insulated but there isn't heat in there. We just put them in the living room til he installed them.

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07-27-2016 , 01:23 AM

#2467

Land O Lakes

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Those cabinets are sick.

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07-28-2016 , 07:17 PM

#2468

suzzer99

Save the Cheerleader, Save the World

Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 99,984

I cleaned my leather chair according to the instructions here. I even did the linseed oil and vinegar overnight and buffed it out the next day. Now the chair is sticky. Anyone know a good way to get it unsticky? Wiping with a damp rag doesn't help.

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07-28-2016 , 08:19 PM

#2469

zikzak

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Throw a towel over it.

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07-28-2016 , 10:24 PM

#2470

ninetynine99

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Try some 200 grit sandpaper.

The dust you create will get soaked up by the oil.

End of stickiness.

Problem solved.

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07-29-2016 , 01:44 AM

#2471

Land O Lakes

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What kind of linseed oil did you use?

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07-29-2016 , 01:45 AM

#2472

suzzer99

Save the Cheerleader, Save the World

Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 99,984

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninetynine99

Try some 200 grit sandpaper.

The dust you create will get soaked up by the oil.

End of stickiness.

Problem solved.

Sandpaper on leather sounds a little dicey.

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07-29-2016 , 01:48 AM

#2473

suzzer99

Save the Cheerleader, Save the World

Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 99,984

Quote:

Originally Posted by Land O Lakes

What kind of linseed oil did you use?

Mona Lisa linseed oil. I kind of eyeballed the 2-1 oil to vinegar ratio and may have been too heavy on the vinegar.

Dammit, now my hands stink from touching the bottle. That stuff gets everywhere.

Another stupid question: Can I wash the rags with regular clothes or will everything smell like linseed oil?

I don't really have a garage. I had to move the linseed rags down to my parking space because even on my balcony they were stinking up my whole condo. If I put them in my storage unit everything in there will smell like linseed oil. If I can't wash them I will just throw them away.

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07-29-2016 , 02:21 AM

#2474

JoshK

veteran

Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 2,894

I bought a house. It costs me money. All of it. Everything. Sigh.

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07-29-2016 , 02:21 AM

#2475

Land O Lakes

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Don't wash rags. I've heard they can still combust even after a wash cycle. Spread the rags flat in single layers, so the heat dissipates as it cures, and when they are brittle the rag is dry and safe to dispose of.

Is that food-grade linseed or raw? If that's raw linseed, it's going to take forever to dry.

Last edited by Land O Lakes; 07-29-2016 at 02:28 AM.

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