Invoice is the cost of the car to the dealership, from the manufacturer. It is what it is.

It's the fundamental number on which a dealer bases the price at which they're willing to sell. Other things to consider of course, but that's always the starting point, as I see it.

Just had my first new car buying experience. The secondary sales guy who tries to upsell you on warranties and all that extra stuff took me by surprise. Luckily I deflected and told him I'd need to think about it and asked it is was negotiable. He mentioned he'd work with me so I called back a few days later and got what I wanted (tint, 3m stoneguard and paint protection) for 33% less than their listed prices. Of course I could have got similar stuff elsewhere with a third party for a bit less, but it was worth the peace of mind of having it done right and at the dealership and it being done before I first pick up the car.

I was pretty happy with getting 4% off the MSRP too. I went to 4 dealerships to price out a new 2015 (~August delivery) and that was about as good as the discounts were for those. The car was super high demand and was the last 2014 in Ontario that was 6spd. When I finally got a line on it, I figured my negotiating power wouldn't be great as it would likely sell to someone else in the next few days if I didn't buy it. Unfortunately, it had to be delivered from roughly 350kms away (no option to pick up there), so that cost $600 and there didn't seem to be any way around that.

Picking it up on the 20th and super excited!

Anytime I've went with an extended warranty, I've gotten it for at least 75% off the original quote. I mean, **** that guy. Let him know his cars are reliable and you don't need it; he'll come around.

To get the most for your trade in without giving a ****?

Tell him the car you rolled in will go to your son/wife, w/e. Squeeze the life out of him until you bottom him out. Then ask him if you were to trade in the car, how much would he give you for it. Then keep reminding him that you already finished the negotiation on the new car and just need the numbers on your used car when he tries to start a new deal/w trade in.

i'm glad that you're excited about your car but there are always ways around their bs fees or at least a way to reduce them.

It probably depends on the dealer and also on the manufacturer to some extent.

I got as much info as I could, including going to a couple of forums and looking at prices buyers reported to have paid for Honda factory warranties for my vehicle. I'm comfortable that at that time for a factory Honda warranty my price was very good.

Some dealerships also sell both factory and aftermarket warranties, so that if someone negotiates hard they can switch to the aftermarket warranty and still maintain a larger margin on the sale.

The best resource for new car buying is the edmunds.com prices paid forums. Just look up the forum for the model you want and you'll see what other people are getting them for in your area. There are often dealers posting in there also that can help you cut through the BS.

As far as internet buying, the initial quote through the dealer website will always be pretty crappy, and then you'll get a follow up email or call from a salesperson with no negotiating power. Ask to talk to the internet manager/sales manager or you're wasting your time.

Apparently my car has a decent amount of rust underneath since I park it on the street and live a block from the beach. I should have gone with the undercoating and skipped the gap insurance.

It's ok though, my mechanic has a high tech solution for the squeakiness - he's going to soak the entire undercarriage in WD-40. True story.

"I'm saying, that TruCoat, you don't get it you get oxidation problems it'll cost you a heck of a lot more than $500..."

Wd40 is a solvent and will likely make things worse over time

Edit:
Very quick googling shows that this may be a myth. Still not sure though since I'm on my phone
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using 2+2 Forums

Is there anything I can or should do now? I moved to about a mile away from the beach and a parking garage. Will the rust stop progressing?

I used a trade-in to get great value one time. We got an offer from an internet dealer that was further away and not the right color at like $50 over invoice. My wife was selling her beater car, probably was not worth $500. They offer $1k on the beater and try to rape us on the new car to make up for it. Work them a little bit, then show them the offer from the other place and threaten to walk. Got the sale.

You can use this to your advantage, make it seem like you are dead set on one, they can fudge the numbers so you seem like you are getting what you want there, then try to rape you on the other. Then have a trump card ready, and either they give in or you walk.

Not to hijack this thread, but I am thinking about leasing a car and never done so before. I've read on here that you can negotiate a lease price, and others have said you really can't. Is there any angle or way I should go about when talking to someone about the lease price/money down.

Absolutely negotiable. I believe (help me out here) that you negotiate the residual value of the car after three years, I think is the typical lease.

I would expect that a lot of the same principles itt would apply.

Right I've read that you negotiate your purchase price of the car because that is what the lease price is based off of. Which it gets kind of confusing, am I going in there saying I want to buy, get price down, and then see what the lease would be on that, or go in there and see what lease prices I can get.

I've leased 3 cars, leases are entirely negotiable. You dont negotiate on the residual since thats a number the bank pics and you dont have any way to negotiate with them. What you negotiate on is the sales price of the car. Thats right, even though it's a lease, the car is being sold by the dealer to the lender. There is absolutely no difference between what you can negotiate for in value on a lease vs a purchase, it's all the same. The dealer will try to get you to negotiate in terms of "monthly payment" instead of purchase price. Just tell him straight up that you know how leases work and that the payment is a result of the purchase price, so you're negotiating on price and not payment.

Just google "auto loan calculator" to get a good lease calculator. The 3 factors you need from the dealer to calculate your payment are

Final sales price of car (whatever you negotiate to)
Money factor (this is interest rate. Just take it and multiply times 2400)
Residual value

The calculator will do all the rest. You can even open it up on your cellphone and do the math right in front of him. If you get the opportunity to negotiate the length of the lease, see if you can get them to do 36 months. Every lease I've had has been 39 months which I always thought was odd, because the bumper to bumper warranty is only good for 36 months. I've always felt this was just some attempt to make you responsible for any damages right before your lease expires by conveniently placing the return date outside of the warranty. If I lease again I'll be adamant about this. Last time i brought it up they just said something lame like "oh you know all dealers are doing this now, it's just some thing ya know?"... Uhhh, wat?

There's a bit more to it than that, I think. Fighting to put less money down up front and have higher payments is better than the opposite.

At least that's what the guys on FerrariChat say. Not sure how much it effects us heathens.

They have a "special" at the dealership. The car is 300/mo with 3500 down. Only problem is its 30k miles for 36 mo. I want to get the upgraded car which would be about 400/mo with 4k due at signing. Is it possible to get that 4k down to like 2k? I am able to pay all of the lease up front if that might make a difference.

idklol

$300/$3500? You leasin a 320i? Check the BMW forums, those dudes really know their **** WRT leases. Asking the dealership can't hurt, and I'm sure it's at least partially dependant on credit score and stuff.

But if they're advertising a special my gut says that's the best they'll give to anyone.

Mostly correct except advertised lease specials are not even close to the best deal.

Hm. Seems odd they wouldn't advertise the best they can do.

You think any dealer actually advertises the best they can do?

This...just leased a 528i on Friday. The special 36 month lease on the BMW website was more than I ended up paying. And less out of pocket than the $4750+tax they advertised.

O and best was the tire and rim protection the finance guy tried to sell me.

$1700...no
$1350...no
Ok best I can do is $1000, no exceptions...no

At very end he circled back and asked if price was keeping me from tire/rim protection and it was important I reconsider it. He asked what I would pay..I said $500 and suddenly he could meet me half way at $750.

So LOL

You should have stuck on $500.