Do u guyz fold AA or KK if you have overpair on dry flop in limits like nl5 ?

Cuz i ran today 4 or 5 times into sets. And its very hard for me to predict them ://

One more question:

With pocket kings or aces u go all in after reraise or bet 3 times op's raise every time ?

THANKS A LOT !

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/32...icros-1181948/

These questions are very dependant on a lot of things. But yeah a lot of the time it will be right to fold to certain action. Players at these levels normally tell you when they are strong. Listen to them.

This depends a lot on stack sizes and the situation.

If villain has stats like 11/5, 10/4 or 12/6, sets are very easy to predict. Nitty set-miners nearly always call pre with any pocket pair, fold to a c-bet if they miss, or raise the flop and get it in when they hit.
So if villain has low numbers like those, you should always fold your one pair hand when you get raised on the flop. Nitty set-miners don't raise with flush draws. They raise with sets. That's their role in life. I get great pleasure by not paying them off.
If villain is more TAGgy/LAGgy, then sets are much harder to spot, but taking notes always helps.

I just started nl5 today, so had lack of info on my ops. But what if I act first with an overpair ? Does it mean that i should check/call ? Cuz I think if I do, many players might just bulff me, or bet with mid/top pair and then I fold my overpair only because i got scared of set.
Apologys for bothering u that much, but falling down with pocket monster against sets is probably the biggest leaks that I have.
P.S. Im rly kinda new guy in real poker, just a month of playing. So I find it very complicated to differ players ( i talk about playing style.) I know basically fish - who is very loose, vide range and mostly agressive or calling station; and good players with stats like 17/12 who have experience and have much smaller range but play agro game ( or not )
It would be rly great if someone could post some info about different types of players. If i learn them, so I could mark them with different colours in ps and have more chances win against them by knowing at least basis of their strategy.

Mostly you should c-bet with an overpair, because you want to get value from weaker hands/draws, unless villain is very aggressive and will do the betting for you. You can trap LAGs by check-calling or check-raising.

As to how to characterize villains, I actually have a fairly complicated colour-coding system with 8 or 9 colours, but most people only use 3 or 4. I literally have a specific colour for nitty set-miners, so I rarely fall into their particular trap.

There are basically two ways of categorizing players.
How loose/tight they are and how passive/aggressive they are.
Anyone that is not completely average is either loose aggressive or loose passive, or tight aggressive or tight passive.
You can colour code villains using just 3 stats - VPIP, PFR and AF (aggression factor) - and it's common to use traffic light colours.

You know the loose passives with stats like 40/2/1. They are the calling stations, and are our biggest donators. They only raise pre-flop when they have aces or kings, and even then it's usually a minraise. Post-flop, they call pot sized bets with weak draws, but don't bet big enough when they have a big hand, so we can draw out on them cheaply. I colour these players green, meaning "GO for max value by potting it with TP+". As you probably know, you shouldn't run any crazy bluffs against these stations.

If you're playing full ring, then anyone with a VPIP of 11 or less can be coloured as a nit. An 11/10 is pretty aggressive when he has a hand, but they are easy to read. Just put them on JJ+ and AK and go from there. If their PFR is less than 5, that means they limp hands like A5s and pocket pairs less than 88. They want to see a cheap flop and hope to get lucky. Often they check-fold to your c-bet. These are the weak tight set-miners. They will only stack off with overpairs, sets, and two pairs. If you see someone that is 10/5/2, he's basically a set-miner. When he raises the flop, he has a monster hand. I steal these player's blinds mercilessly, but if they play back, they have a strong hand. I colour nits red, meaning "If they play back at me, STOP betting!"

Someone in the range 12-20 for VPIP and PFR between 8 and 18 is a TAG. These tend to be the best players, and are the ones you should avoid if possible. If the AF is 2.5 or lower, they play straightforwardly, typically c-betting on a one-and-done basis and only continuing to bet when they have a hand. If the AF is 3.5 or higher, these players will often raise with draws in position, but rarely make total bluffs. Since you should proceed with caution against players with stats in the medium range, you can colour them orange.

Someone with an AF of 5 is often an habitual bluffer, betting and raising with total air. This is especially true if the VPIP is over 20 and PFR is over 18. These LAGs (loose agressives) will try and bully you out of a pot. You don't want one of these guys directly to your left, as they can make life hell for you. If he's on your right though, you can let him spew off his chips when you have a strong hand in position.
Complete maniacs with stats like 78/36/8 don't tend to stick around for long. They'll shove all in with 95s and occasionally crack someone's aces, win a few more pots by overbetting, and then they get busted.
I colour the LAGs and maniacs bright yellow. Since these players are the hardest to read, I like to make as many notes on them as possible, so I have specific reads, although I also tend to avoid them if I want to limit my variance during a downswing.

With experience, you'll get much better at putting players on a range of hands partly from their stats and colour-coding. Table-selection becomes much easier once you've colour-coded players. Avoid the players you've marked as TAGs/LAGs, and hunt down the fish and the nits. These are the easiest to play against, which helps your bottom line.

If you play 6max, then the % figures should all be increased. Someone playing 18/15/3 in a full ring game would be a TAG. The same stats in 6max are quite nitty.

Wow thanks a lot for the comprehensive answer. I trie to apply this but the problem i have is to really stick to this tactic. Sometimes i will call/raise anyway even i know villan has a set because god damn i has Aces!

But i guess this is more a problem of my mindset then of evaluating numbers....

Arty... such a great answer.. Thanks a lot!
I'll analyse all that great info

Just a quick thought. Im a bit confused with LAG/fish/maniac.

As I understand:
1)fish/maniac is a player who plays crazy game almost every hand with almost no basis of poker.
2) lag - is not the same as fish ? The reason why should I avoid him is that he is hard to read ?


One more question:

I used to choose tables on fr like : ( i mean filter options)

min avg pot 20bb
min players on flop 20%
min vpip 20%

is that correct as long as I do not have almost any marks on players ?


Thanks a lot again!

P.S. never felt so excited about poker and stuff ..lalalalalala !!!!!!!!!

If you are multi tabling grinding this is bad. I only play one table and I'm beating 200nl or 400nl at bodog for now. It helps that Bodog is anonymous though.

Total fish never consider what hands you have, or what the board texture is like. They just look at their cards and think "2 pr is a good hand" or "I have a straight draw, so I'll call a pot sized bet". Most fish are quite passive though. When you have a strong hand (TPTK+) just keep betting. They'll occasionally suck out with weird gutshots and 2 pr, but in the long run you make a ton of money from their terrible calls. Passive fish have stats like 33/2/1 or 55/7/2. The gap between VPIP and PFR is always large.
Maniacs like going all in pre-flop with junk, and also overbetting the pot on the flop, whether they have a hand or total air. You have to watch them play a few hands so you can take notes. Find out if they bet big with good hands, or only with bluffs. Maniacs are basically bad LAGs. They don't pick the right spots to make big bluffs. Maniacs have stats like 50/25/8 and a 3bet of 10% or higher
Good LAGs, by contrast, are very hard to play against, because they pick good times to bluff. Tom Dwan is a LAG. He can (sometimes) make money with 73o. He also makes a lot of money when he has pocket aces, because his opponents think "He's Tom Dwan, he's probably got 73o". If you can't get a read on a LAG because he bluffs just as often as not, just avoid them. If one is on your left, find another table. He will be raising your opens and flop bets so often that you'll have to keep folding, and never know where you're at. Good LAGs tend to have stats like 24/16/4 and a 3-bet% of 4 or 5%.
That's the right idea for table selection. I list tables with the highest VPIP in the Pokerstars lobby. Then I work down through the list, looking for players I've already colour-coded as passive fish. If the waiting list is long though, I'll often sit out and close the table if I get given a bad seat (maniac on my left) or the fish has gone busto by the time I get my place.
A quicker way to find the juiciest tables is to use Tablescan Turbo. I only got it last week and I've found an instant improvement in my winrate. Download it free from http://tablescanturbo.com/ and let it find the best tables for you. (Look for the highest VPIP and lowest PFR in the top window, or go after particular fish in the bottom panel).

Good post, but 24/16 over a decent sample is more like a a fish-reg i would say. Good LAG is more like ~28/24 with 9%+ 3bet. Line between a good LAG and a maniac can be very thin at times I also would not use AF unless you have 5k+ hands on someone, mainly only useful for spotting the super passive guys. Someone with a 5AF can just play super fit or fold and thats why he has such a high AF. Imo AF and 3B% are the most misused stats they need really good sample sizes to be of any meaning.

When your cbet gets raised ask yourself would he do this with a worse hand? Would this guy really raise my cb with TT on 952, basically repping nothing, is he even competent enough to know that hes not repping much? Is this hand even in his range? etc

And dont just think "ah hes a LAG i will do this and that".. etc,
LAG is not = LAG and weak player is not = weak player. Every players has a different game. I think you can have an overall gameplan vs each player but always look to adjust