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07-21-2016 , 08:49 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBritishLion
Hey guys, only popped in here to ask why can't i post a thread on the staking forum?
Did you read the rules for posting in the Staking Forum that are posted at the top of the Staking Forum?
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07-23-2016 , 07:38 AM
So what exactly is all in equity? I know it's a measure of how good you're running but how exactly does it work?
How does PT4 graph the yellow line?
Thanks
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07-23-2016 , 10:53 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrno1324
...all in equity [...] I know it's a measure of how good you're running but how exactly does it work? How does PT4 graph the yellow line?
Put your thinking cap on & read this: https://www.pokertracker.com/guides/...-equity-graphs

I do without entirely - no practical use to me
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07-29-2016 , 03:48 AM
Reverse fold equity is a nice term and its usage is also user friendly
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07-29-2016 , 08:48 PM
I have a few questions please, about when to Jam All-In and When to Table/Seat change.......

JAMMING ALL-IN:
1. My question is ..... How do you decide when to Jam yourself ( You move All-In ) ?

And also, how do you decide when to Call an Opponent's All-In shove ?

Is it based on your own two cards? Your Position ? Your and or your opponents who are yet to Act's Stack sizes ?

If the player who Jams All-In is Tight or Loose , does this come into the decision process on whether to call their All-In ?

Does the Number of players yet to act effect are decision ?


SEAT/TABLE CHANGING :
2. Lastly please...... When / How do you know when to Table Change and or Seat change ?

Meaning ..... What is the significance of Table and or seat changing ?

Is the Table Change done, because we want to move from a Table that's not showing much action ( alot of TAGs ) , and sit in at a table that has alot of Whales and people spewing chips ? And how will we know what table has Players spewing chips , etc ? Just Observe the tables before we sit down ?

And where do we want to be SEATING wise to the Largest stacks at the table that we are playing at ?




Thanks much for the help
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07-29-2016 , 10:04 PM
I have a question for you all, when my two hole cards in NLH is less than 19, I fold. Anything more than 19..I bet and or call.

I am playing online.

I have only playing for about a month now, is the above a good idea?
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07-30-2016 , 07:54 AM
not really
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07-30-2016 , 02:33 PM
Logan5,
To establish the strength of your hand using addition is not a very good start to your learning. 88 is a much better hand than K9o.

Any basic poker book will get you going on the right path. Harrington on Hold Em was the first book I read. http://www.twoplustwo.com/books/poke...trategic-play/

Last edited by King Spew; 07-30-2016 at 02:42 PM.
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07-30-2016 , 05:08 PM
I found it!

Thank you very much!

Logan~
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07-31-2016 , 01:18 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by King Spew
Logan5,
To establish the strength of your hand using addition is not a very good start to your learning. 88 is a much better hand than K9o.

Any basic poker book will get you going on the right path. Harrington on Hold Em was the first book I read. http://www.twoplustwo.com/books/poke...trategic-play/
Agreed, HOH is a great starter book. When you start to get serious or want to make money at poker you'll need something a little more in tune with today's agressive game, but for learning the basics it is just what you need.
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07-31-2016 , 01:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by md2324
I have a few questions please, about when to Jam All-In and When to Table/Seat change.......

JAMMING ALL-IN:
1. My question is ..... How do you decide when to Jam yourself ( You move All-In ) ?

And also, how do you decide when to Call an Opponent's All-In shove ?

Is it based on your own two cards? Your Position ? Your and or your opponents who are yet to Act's Stack sizes ?

If the player who Jams All-In is Tight or Loose , does this come into the decision process on whether to call their All-In ?

Does the Number of players yet to act effect are decision ?


SEAT/TABLE CHANGING :
2. Lastly please...... When / How do you know when to Table Change and or Seat change ?

Meaning ..... What is the significance of Table and or seat changing ?

Is the Table Change done, because we want to move from a Table that's not showing much action ( alot of TAGs ) , and sit in at a table that has alot of Whales and people spewing chips ? And how will we know what table has Players spewing chips , etc ? Just Observe the tables before we sit down ?

And where do we want to be SEATING wise to the Largest stacks at the table that we are playing at ?




Thanks much for the help
I can't help you on seat changes because I only play tournaments, which have assigned seats.

Other than that, everything that I bolded is correct. You consider all of those things.
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08-01-2016 , 09:17 AM
What's the best way to make HUD notes? I know some people suggest typing out whole hands (with abbreviations of course), but is it really necessary? Seems like you'd have too many notes and that it would be inefficient to read all the hands you have on a player.
For example if you see someone donking a gutshot, do you really need to write down the whole hand instead of just "donk bets gutshots"?
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08-01-2016 , 10:18 AM
Try to take notes that you'll be able to understand later and that aren't actually going to confuse you later, so context and info is important.

I might write something like "donk J9o on 8TQr HU vs MP"
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08-01-2016 , 01:28 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrno1324
What's the best way to make HUD notes? I know some people suggest typing out whole hands (with abbreviations of course), but is it really necessary? Seems like you'd have too many notes and that it would be inefficient to read all the hands you have on a player.
For example if you see someone donking a gutshot, do you really need to write down the whole hand instead of just "donk bets gutshots"?
In the example you give, the summary "donk bets gutshots" is fine.

In general my first few notes on a villain are generally abbreviated hands or summarised hands e.g. "RFI CO, cbet 1/2 pot A22(hh) vs BU, xf turn 8(h)" but the aim is to get sufficient notes on one spot that it becomes a generalised read. For example these two observations:


Quote:
Potted drawy flop against fish then xf blank turn
Called 3bet UTG vs BU. Minraise A53r flop, xf blank turn
... are put together as examples supporting a general read...

Quote:
Can be aggro on flop but shuts down on turn. Be wary if aggression continues:
- Potted drawy flop against fish then xf blank turn
- Called 3bet UTG vs BU. Minraise A53r flop, xf blank turn
After sufficient examples and/or as my notes on a player become unwieldy, I'll remove example hands and just keep the general read. If a bunch of notes doesn't lead to a solid read, then I'll end up deleting them.
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08-01-2016 , 01:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrno1324
What's the best way to make HUD notes?
http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/78...-tl-dr-332863/
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08-01-2016 , 03:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrno1324
What's the best way to make HUD notes? I know some people suggest typing out whole hands (with abbreviations of course), but is it really necessary? Seems like you'd have too many notes and that it would be inefficient to read all the hands you have on a player.
For example if you see someone donking a gutshot, do you really need to write down the whole hand instead of just "donk bets gutshots"?
Points which can't be discovered just using HUD stats (on your sample) which you have a clear idea about how to exploit. There's no point in taking a note which says 'cbets 3/4 pot' (obviously this is an extreme example), because not only is that often reasonable, it's not remotely context-dependent and my guess would be that even if someone was using an inappropriate sizing for their range, most micro players wouldn't have a clue how to exploit it.

For instance, a note that I might take would say something like 'call turn wide nsdv fd facing 1/3 2/3 bbxbt' - this means that my opponent is inclined to call the turn out of position with flush draws with no showdown value where it is a losing play to do so. We can exploit this by bluffing flushing rivers less (and value betting them tighter) and bluffing non-flush rivers wider.
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08-02-2016 , 02:32 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrno1324
What's the best way to make HUD notes? I know some people suggest typing out whole hands (with abbreviations of course), but is it really necessary? Seems like you'd have too many notes and that it would be inefficient to read all the hands you have on a player.
For example if you see someone donking a gutshot, do you really need to write down the whole hand instead of just "donk bets gutshots"?
The examples given to you are good, but I'm often in a situation where I'm playing at 0300 on low-traffic sites and I play whatever is available, and some of my opponents are doing the same thing. It could be a turbo or regular speed SNG, or an MTT. For that situation, I copy a heading that I can paste that context into the note box, for example:

8/2/2016 $3.30 9p SNG

The "p" stands for player, but of course use whatever abbreviations work for you.

Last edited by Poker Clif; 08-02-2016 at 02:33 PM. Reason: I inserted the word "context."
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08-02-2016 , 03:06 PM
"Why do I feel like I'm always treading water?"
"Why do I lose when I go to the casino and play 1/2?"

Why do I do so well at pub league tournaments?

I just realized that I previously thought I was 'well read' in poker books, until I realized that I've only read Theory of Poker & Harrington on Holdem.

Just browsed Amazon.ca and found 6 books that are a 'must read' in my opinion...

Kill Everyone
Caro's Book of Poker Tells
Professional No Limit Holdem: Vol 1
No Limit Holdem: Theory and Practice
The Mental Game of Poker
The Psychology of Poker


After reading THOSE books I could consider myself 'well read', at least for a beginner.

I am a long-term break-even player online, and in free pub league tournaments I've done very well... but every time I try the casino live 1/2 (all but once) I've gone home busto.
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08-10-2016 , 08:58 AM
Somewhere out there is a chart showing each holdem holding and the expected EV over time.

And I can't find it.

Lil help please?
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08-14-2016 , 09:11 AM
I am sure this is a dumb question so this will be the right place to post it. I have been watching quite a bit of Poker after dark and realize that the normal hand range people learn to play when they start out doesnt apply to the big players like Ivey or Antonius. I guess thats because they know that being unpredictable and playing 93o like an AKs gives them a reasonable edge over their opponents. But why is this sort of strategy not suggested for the really small stakes like 2NL or 5NL etc.? Wouldnt that give us a huge edge over all the other players only playing facecards and pairs because they would mostly fold while we can pick up the pot with garbage?
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08-14-2016 , 10:22 AM
On PAD and other HS cash games they are usually playing 250-1000+ BB deep which leaves a lot more room for creativity.
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08-14-2016 , 01:43 PM
People got bored and everyone else was completely terrible.
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08-14-2016 , 01:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirly_Fries
But why is this sort of strategy not suggested for the really small stakes like 2NL or 5NL etc.? Wouldnt that give us a huge edge over all the other players only playing facecards and pairs because they would mostly fold while we can pick up the pot with garbage?
Try it....and report back.

After a VERY short time at the table, your opponents will realize you are playing a stupendously wide range and adjust.....even at 2NL. Think about it from the other direction.....wouldn't you LOVE to have a coupla 75/16 players at every table you play? Why?

Also consider all the hands you are playing will slowly deplete your stacks as you will be forced to check/fold a bunch of flops.

Finally,,,, consider the post-flop skills of the named players.
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08-14-2016 , 10:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirly_Fries
I am sure this is a dumb question so this will be the right place to post it. I have been watching quite a bit of Poker after dark and realize that the normal hand range people learn to play when they start out doesnt apply to the big players like Ivey or Antonius. I guess thats because they know that being unpredictable and playing 93o like an AKs gives them a reasonable edge over their opponents. But why is this sort of strategy not suggested for the really small stakes like 2NL or 5NL etc.? Wouldnt that give us a huge edge over all the other players only playing facecards and pairs because they would mostly fold while we can pick up the pot with garbage?
No.

Also, hyper aggressively playing garbage was good in the toughest games in the world back when durrr was doing it. And then they adjusted and now it's not good any more.

tl;dr give it a go and see what happens.
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08-22-2016 , 10:47 AM
I know these kinds of general questions get asked often and I don't know to which extent it's possible to answer them but I'll try and ask it as specifically as I can.
How viable is playing online MTTs as a source of income? I know cash is where skill edge is maximised but unfortunately competition + rake is making online cash less and less attractive to me from a financial viewpoint, although I enjoy the competitive skill aspect.
I understand that the competition in MTTs online is much weaker still so wouldn't it be natural for one to make MTTs one's bread and butter? Assuming you can deal with variance and inconvenience of having to sit down and finish an MTT once you start it.
Basically if you had short term goal of running $100 into $1k would you be more inclined to do it by starting with $1 MTTs (or maybe SNGs) or grinding cash?
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