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Schmendr1ck's Custom Cash Set (image heavy!) Schmendr1ck's Custom Cash Set (image heavy!)

04-20-2014 , 12:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by eneely
I have spent almost zero time on CT, so I am a novice when it comes to chip design. And I am like a movie critic when it comes to colors; I have definite opinions about what works or doesn't work, but I am not particularly adept at putting colors together.

Now that I think about it, pale yellow can be a real problem next to whites, unless the lighting is always really good. My Crystal Oyster set had yellow quarters and white $1s, and while there was little confusion, I was not happy with the lack of contrast. That was the main reason I sold them, actually.

I like the butterscotch base, but I'm not sure about the spots.




OK, this is probably a newbie consideration, but is it good design to borrow the main colors of other chips and repeat them in the other denoms? It helps bring the scheme together, but doesn't it make it harder to distinguish one from another? I personally like that you put a red spot, but added a green which does not occur anywhere else.

Also, the mention of dayglow colors is intriguing. Do they weigh more than the other ones, because of the brass? I have always loved the WSOP chips and their gaudy colors. You should either coordinate, or just go wild.

Damn, this makes me want to create a set. I might play with that tool when I have more time.
Day glow colors are meant to be used as spots because they aren't mixed with any brass. If used as a base I think the site says the chip would be a half gram less.

As far as repeating colors is concerned, I don't think schmend has anything to worry about. Almost all of my chips share colors with each other, but the base color of the chip is enough to distinguish. My only downside is my $1, which is like schmends hundo except it is 4v12 instead of 3v12. For me, all the white then makes the $.05 especially hard to distinguish when together. So, that's why the new batch of $1s is only 2v12 to allow for more blue.

Also, continuing on the spot issue, so long as the spots are wildly different from a chip with clashing base colors, you should be OK. My bears $.25 and cubs $1 are a case in point. Dark blue and blue bases, but orange/white in 3v12 on the bears and white/red in 4v12 on the other solves the problem.

Finally, I like the third chip in those yellow mockups.
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04-21-2014 , 08:08 AM
Okay, I read the brass thing incorrectly. Is there a noticeable difference? A half gram doesn't sound like much.

I played around with the CT tool, and I see there aren't that many colors. I like the idea of using colors from the other chips, to bring them together. Maybe the yellow with blue and red?

Quote:
My bears $.25 and cubs $1 are a case in point. Dark blue and blue bases, but orange/white in 3v12 on the bears and white/red in 4v12 on the other solves the problem.
Didn't get my hint about posting photos of your chips, huh?
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04-21-2014 , 11:43 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by eneely
Okay, I read the brass thing incorrectly. Is there a noticeable difference? A half gram doesn't sound like much.

I played around with the CT tool, and I see there aren't that many colors. I like the idea of using colors from the other chips, to bring them together. Maybe the yellow with blue and red?



Didn't get my hint about posting photos of your chips, huh?
I've been mobile since Saturday night. Will do right meow.
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04-21-2014 , 12:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Breich
I've been mobile since Saturday night. Will do right meow.
I've been on the road since last Monday, so I can relate.
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04-21-2014 , 01:26 PM
Some folks want all their base colors to be the same type, either all weighted or all unweighted. This probably has more to do with the overall look than the weight. Weighted and unweighted base colors have very different characters, and I understand that historically unweighted chips predate chips made with brass powder. Even so, in my set I used weighted base colors for all my chips except the hundred, which was modeled after two specific Nevada hundreds made by TRK (Overland Hotel and Pick Hobson's Riverside, Reno, issued in the 1970s). For various reasons, I'm fine with my hundred being unweighted, including that it's the outlier denomination. Still, in general, I recommend using all weighted or all unweighted base colors but freely mixing weighted and unweighted spots.

I think that cohesiveness springs from a combination of base colors and materials, spot colors, use of color families, use of complementary and contrasting colors, and spot patterns. Although the repetition of colors within a set may contribute to a cohesive look, if done incorrectly it can make certain chips difficult to distinguish in stacks and/or in pots.

Although I love half-pies, historically they've been used mostly as fractionals, and to me the half-pie looks out of place as the $5. You might try this chip with three 1/2" spots instead, which should fit in better with the rest of your set.
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04-22-2014 , 01:32 PM
Concept inlays for a $20 chip based on "The Land." It's a rough idea using borrowed clip art, but I think this is close to the feel I wanted to go for if I do a Land chip:


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04-22-2014 , 01:38 PM
Regarding all the discussion of base and edge spot colors:

Quote:
Originally Posted by abby99
I think that cohesiveness springs from a combination of base colors and materials, spot colors, use of color families, use of complementary and contrasting colors, and spot patterns. Although the repetition of colors within a set may contribute to a cohesive look, if done incorrectly it can make certain chips difficult to distinguish in stacks and/or in pots.
I agree with this completely. The mockups that I posted are initial ideas, but I fully expect those to change as I finalize my inlay designs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abby99
Although I love half-pies, historically they've been used mostly as fractionals, and to me the half-pie looks out of place as the $5. You might try this chip with three 1/2" spots instead, which should fit in better with the rest of your set.
Yes, it does look a little out of place, though I like some variety in spot patterns. I really love the idea of having a half- or quarter-pie in the set (you know how I've raved about your quarter-pie $100), but if it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit.

I'll probably focus mostly on the inlay design first, then revisit the spot patterns & colors once I have at least a firm concept for the inlays.
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04-22-2014 , 01:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmendr1ck
The mockups that I posted are initial ideas, but I fully expect those to change as I finalize my inlay designs.
You have no idea how often they might change! Actually, that's part of the fun. You'll know they're done when any additional change you come up with detracts from rather than improves the overall composition.
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04-25-2014 , 01:49 PM
I went through the custom chip gallery at CT last night and found a few chips that I like for one reason or another.

These are half-pies much like my $5 chip idea:


Another very interesting half-pie idea is the $1 chip in this set:


I really like the $1, $5 and $100 in abby99's Lady Luck Club (second?) set. I also love the inlays. And hey, look, another half-pie!


The black and yellow edgespots in the red $5 chips here really pop, and I think they look great in stacks:
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04-25-2014 , 05:41 PM
I absolutely love the last picture. Would make for a great tourney set.
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04-25-2014 , 07:03 PM
That RPR half-pie $1 is gorgeous, and perfect for anybody who is on the fence between a blue and a white $1.

Sadly, I discovered that light green and light blue have too little contrast, and the nickels got lost too easily in a stack of $1's. I replaced it with a purple chip with two 1/2" gray spots, again modeled after an old NV casino chip.
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08-06-2014 , 05:05 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmendr1ck
I'm planning to break this up over 4-5 orders since I simply don't have the cash to order everything at once. I can probably manage about half this year and half next year, and I'm planning to split the set up into multiple orders to keep it in financially manageable chunks:

Order 1: 500 chips (140-200-100-60-0).
This gives me a playable one-table .25/.50 NL/PL set immediately with a total bank that is significantly larger than my typical one-table games.

Order 2: 440 chips (100-200-100-40-0).
This allows for two-table .25/.50 NL/PL games while also giving me enough $1 and $20 chips for a reasonable single-table FL game.

Next Year: 1060 chips (0-800-200-0-60).
This completes the set and will probably be split over 2 orders.
bumping a several month old thread, but just in case this project is still in the works, i felt compelled to comment on the batch-ordering strategy here. i've done the same thing and would advise doing it strictly by denom.

i know that's not really the best way to allow you to use the chips between orders, but if you split a single denom into two separate orders and two different batches of clay are used, you're very likely to see some color variation between the two orders. the degree of color variation in ASM/CPC chips varies depending on the color, but even something as straightforward as regular white will very often produce noticeably different tones in two different batches.

particularly at this moment as CPC is experimenting under new ownership, i would be surprised if they weren't trying to improve some colors. obviously this is a good thing, but only makes it more likely that you'll get variation within your denoms if you split them over two or more orders.

i've become much less picky about chips over the years, but this is still something i do my best to avoid. it would be difficult to split your breakdown into three orders with the first being highly playable, but i would consider it worth it to me if it were my set.
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08-06-2014 , 05:38 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeef
bumping a several month old thread, but just in case this project is still in the works, i felt compelled to comment on the batch-ordering strategy here. i've done the same thing and would advise doing it strictly by denom.

i know that's not really the best way to allow you to use the chips between orders, but if you split a single denom into two separate orders and two different batches of clay are used, you're very likely to see some color variation between the two orders. the degree of color variation in ASM/CPC chips varies depending on the color, but even something as straightforward as regular white will very often produce noticeably different tones in two different batches.

particularly at this moment as CPC is experimenting under new ownership, i would be surprised if they weren't trying to improve some colors. obviously this is a good thing, but only makes it more likely that you'll get variation within your denoms if you split them over two or more orders.

i've become much less picky about chips over the years, but this is still something i do my best to avoid. it would be difficult to split your breakdown into three orders with the first being highly playable, but i would consider it worth it to me if it were my set.
My second batch of blue chips from CPC is ever so slightly lighter. My second batch of red chips are spot on. The first batches were both from ASM Vegas. If anything I would trust CPC to be much more consistent than ASM Vegas, judged solely by how well they're running the company.
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08-06-2014 , 11:02 PM
I've done 4 orders to make my set thus far and all the colors are dead on. There is no way now to tell which chips came from which batch.
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08-07-2014 , 12:14 AM
that's so good to hear it's hardly credible! I'd be tempted to make the second batch "secondaries" with slightly different spots just to cover the bases. But if they can match the colors over time, rock on.
Schmendr1ck's Custom Cash Set (image heavy!) Quote
08-07-2014 , 12:23 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeef
bumping a several month old thread, but just in case this project is still in the works, i felt compelled to comment on the batch-ordering strategy here. i've done the same thing and would advise doing it strictly by denom.

i know that's not really the best way to allow you to use the chips between orders, but if you split a single denom into two separate orders and two different batches of clay are used, you're very likely to see some color variation between the two orders. the degree of color variation in ASM/CPC chips varies depending on the color, but even something as straightforward as regular white will very often produce noticeably different tones in two different batches.

particularly at this moment as CPC is experimenting under new ownership, i would be surprised if they weren't trying to improve some colors. obviously this is a good thing, but only makes it more likely that you'll get variation within your denoms if you split them over two or more orders.

i've become much less picky about chips over the years, but this is still something i do my best to avoid. it would be difficult to split your breakdown into three orders with the first being highly playable, but i would consider it worth it to me if it were my set.
This project is still on, I just haven't made any progress on it in the last couple of months due to other commitments. Thanks for the bump.

Given that Jim Blanchard is heavily involved with CPC, I feel pretty confident that I'll get consistency across orders. Plus, I'll find it tough to get that first order in and not play with it.
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08-07-2014 , 12:37 AM
I would trust Jim Blanchard to provide accurate information as to which colors, if any, might have the greatest variation between batches.

Also, they do grind waste clay (e.g., from trimmings) and add the grind to the next batch of that color, which I understand helps with color consistency.
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11-17-2014 , 12:46 AM
Bump to find out if this project is still a go at some point.
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11-17-2014 , 10:55 AM
It's still a go at some point, it's just been on the back burner for several months due to other commitments (children, job. ). I plan to have a good bit of free time during the holidays, and hopefully I can make some real progress then.
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05-26-2015 , 03:48 PM
Updates?
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