1/2/5, $500 effective, straddle is OTB this hand. Villain would be most closely associated with the loose passive profile, but he's definitely tighter and more aggressive than the run of the mill LLSNL loose passive. Hero has a TAG image.

OTTH

Hero opens LJ $25 A K and only villain calls OTB.

Flop ($53): J 3 2. Hero bets $20, villain calls.

Turn ($93): 4. Hero?

I bet the flop because this board is so dry that I like range betting, even OOP, versus someone calling way too wide pre.

I'm not so sure about what to do on the turn, though. We turned equity, but a J is never folding, and I'm skeptical that 55-TT is folding, but I also don't have enough experience with villain to make that call. I feel like we can check-call versus a smaller bet, but have to check-fold versus a larger one and it kinda sucks with having up to 10 outs.

In order to not be overbluffing here, i normally give up on this card. I would tend to keep betting on any K,A,Q or spade. Even though we turned a gutter here to the wheel, i like checking/giving up here lot as i believe our opponent still feel good about their hand on this small card.

If we get one of the good turncards i am turning up the heat and firing a chunky bet so put solid pressure on hands like J10 or QJ, or other non believing pairs on the flop.

I would continue with a bluff sometimes but not often. C-bet flop and give up turn is too obvious of a pattern, even for a low stakes game. Against a generic opponent I continue roughly 1 time in 5 given a very dry flop and brick turn. I suspect if your going to range bet the flop you need to bluff the turn more often but I don't know for sure.

Maybe continue with our kq suiteds and check down our ak and hope we win

I don't understand the down bet on the flop that I see in many forum posts. With this sizing it costs V $20 to win $70 and seems to be an invitation to proceed with even the slightest perceived equity, IMO flop should be $35-50.

AP I tend to double barrel a large unless previously looked up in session and found to be observed as FOS.

I usually give up on this turn.

Squander, from what I’ve seen, almost any reasonable flop sizing won’t be meaningfully different in theoretical EV than any other size. There’s exploitatively merit to either small or large. Small is nice as we can just basically always cbet this board and not having to worry about balance. Small is also nice with bluffs since recs are a little inelastic toward sizing in my experience. Their play doesn’t vary enough based on our bet sizing. Larger is good because we often want to build a pot vs their wide ranges and because it helps define their hand better.

I also limit my double barrels here to turns where we pick up equity, i.e., in this case A, K, Q, T, or a spade — mostly to make sure I’m not bluffing too often. Because I don’t want to bet the flop and give up turn too often, I’ll also occasionally not cbet a board like this (or perhaps check flop and go for a double barrel on turn+river) because the bet flop/give up turn line is so transparent, especially from out of position. If you have a lot of history with your opponent obviously you can deviate from this, but IMO low-equity-when-called double barrels aren’t really profitable against most opponents, just roughly breakeven I think, and I think most of our +EV here comes from when we actually happen to back into a hand.

I would bet turn a small percentage of the time. I’d rather bluff with less showdown value like A6

I'd X/F turn unless we have a read that this opponent will take a stab with worse. There is also some chance our hand has SD value.

If a spade hit, sizing large, an A/K about 1/2 pot.

I think turn betting decision is probably at least partly dependent on your image and history with Villain. I know you say 'TAG' but really...what has he seen you show down, how many times have you opened pots and double barrelled, has he seen you bluffing etc etc.

for me with my image which is generally very nitty, if I'm cbetting, I'm almost certainly double barrelling and I'm probably going pot or over pot.

What range do you give BTN here? Are you putting hands like T9o in his range

Another reason I don't love betting flop is that we often have the best hand here but will be forced to fold turn often when we check and he bets. And I don't want to develop an image for firing a cbet then giving up on the turn. Almost any hand that floated the flop is going to bet when checked to in position, so I like to avoid these situations OOP when we have some showdown value. If we want to double barrel hoping he'll fold a middle pair, I'd rather go turn+river.

What do you think is a reasonable range for BTN here?

Seems like a good spot to check flop. OOP and we don't have a lot of value bets. We'd rather bluff worse hands that interact with the Jack(Q9s, QTs, T9s, etc) or gutters A4s A5s.

I'd probably check and fold turn unless the sizing is small.

Thanks Badreg, helpful and makes sense. I tend to opt for the larger sizing to better define Vs commitment as Wrath said except for the sessions where I get too much respect and can steal cheaply.

@ doo doo can't a loose passive V be defending his button as lightly as any 2 sooted?

If we are TAG with a clean session image why can't we rep QQ+, TT, AJ,KJ,QJ,JT with our flop bet and continue to barrel?

With a compromised session image I don't even bet this flop.