Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ron
AFAIK basically every economically priced bottle is meant to be drunk in the first year or two. I haven't found that aging cheap wine helps, actually in most cases where I kept them like 4 years+ they got noticeably worse. $15 cabs might do OK for a few years, but I don't think setting them down for 7-10+ years is going to be beneficial.
I could be totally wrong on this, but...
You're certainly not totally wrong on this and, for the most part, you're correct. Here's the "Reader's Digest" version of why:
Back in 70s and 80s, a number of the CA vintners wanted to make their wines approachable more quickly than what had traditionally been the norm, but they didn't want to surrender the quality or complexity of the wine in doing so. (And since time is money, they also wanted to decrease their time-to-market.) I mean everyone pretty much knew that you could reduce the tannins or stop the fermentation a bit early- thereby leaving a bit of the sugar in the wine- and have a wine that's "drinkable" pretty quick. And, in fact, that's exactly what a lot of the producers of "cheap" wine did.
But for the guys making really good wines (Phelps, Mondavi, BV, etc.), the quest became one of preserving the quality
and bringing the wine to its apogee within a few years of bottling. Until then, winemaking was largely an art and little had materially changed for centuries.
Enter the School of Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis. While they date their origins back to 1880, it wasn't until 1935 that their current department was established. (Prohibition had put a damper on the department's activities.) From their website:
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Early research efforts were aimed at making grape growing and wine production economically viable for post-Prohibition agriculturists. Quality as well as quantity is crucial to the financial success of any vineyard operation and work focused on identifying the appropriate varieties and clones best suited to California growing conditions and on defining vineyard practices that would generate sufficient yield to render grape growing profitable. At the same time the technology to assure the production of sound, defect-free wines was developed. These efforts allowed California vintners to produce commercially acceptable wines reproducibly year after year.
Later research aimed at expanding knowledge of the factors that impact grape and wine characters so that the winemaking processes could be tailored by individual winemakers to achieve the desired flavor and aroma profiles in the finished wine. This allowed the industry to move beyond mere commercial acceptability to the production of intricately crafted fine wines. {bolded added} Objective methods of sensory evaluation of wines were developed in the Department that is now widely used throughout the food and beverage industries. Descriptive analysis of wines has now become a standard procedure for wine evaluation and has had the added benefit of making wines less intimidating for the consumer. Marketplace interest in wine has further increased due to recent Department research that point to various components in wine that may have beneficial human health effects.
It was this "later research" that put science into the art of winemaking thanks to some dedicated guys like Calli doing what I considered the Lord's Work in enology. And that research- largely fundedd by the CA wine industry- has fundamentally changed winemaking worldwide. The program has also produced some of today's top winemakers.
So Cap'n, you're right that many of the less expensive wines are meant for early consumption and, generally, don't benefit much from additional aging and can decline over time. But the primary reason that more expensive wines will hold/improve their flavor has more to do with the quality of the grape(s) used to make it. Economically produced wines often buy their grapes as surplus inventory from many growers. (Iow, they're using the left-overs.) Sure, modern winemaking- thanks to UC Davis- allows some of these wines to be well-crafted and very enjoyable.
But the very best are still made with the best grapes and those aren't cheap, nor are they comparatively plentiful. And, also thanks to UC Davis, we can enjoy them a lot sooner than in years past.
I was fortunate that my wine education began about the time that this "later research" was really beginning to impact the wine industry. It's been a fun and rewarding experience.