Sorry about the picture quality, but this was taken in the subdued lighting of a West Palm Beach bar. (I took the first pic with the flash on which rendered the label unreadable.)
This is the
Cune Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva, 2004.
I'll begin by saying that I am a big fan of a good Rioja. At their best, they are supple, elegant and nuanced with perfectly balanced components of flavors. I remember drinking my first bottle of good Rioja back in the mid-80s at
Tio Pepe's in Washington, DC and was struck by how well the wine enhanced the flavor of the Spanish fare that we had for dinner.
Since then, I've had many Riojas and my experience with them has paralleled that of drinking the Italian Brunellos. That being, any given wine is either fabulous, borderline pedestrian or it just sucks. This dichotomy is especially irksome with the Brunellos because you're not gonna find a good one on the cheap and the "subpar" ones cost the same. I really think the growing region needs to be renamed, "Pig-in-a-Poke."
Back to the featured wine.
I took this bottle to dinner after having called ahead to make sure the restaurant was OK with me bringing outside wine into the joint. "Sure," they said, "corkage is $15."
Another digression before getting to the review: I cannot remember the last time I was actually charged corkage as long as I offered the server/sommelier a glass of the wine being poured-
even if they declined the offer. I'm gonna call that the "leo doc wine tip of the month."
The bar server declined my offer of a glass, but told me that the bartender was serious about his vino and, in short order, he showed up with corkscrew in hand. He looked at the label, nodded his approval, cut the foil and effortlessly decorked the bottle. He poured a tasting portion into my glass, then paused for me to sample it. "Let's do this together," I said while gesturing that he pour his. And so we did.
The nose was floral, complex and sweet- but not pungent like some of the older-style Riojas that were left in the cask too long before bottling. He and I were in agreement about the quality of the nose.
He made a standard pour after the initial tasting. When I looked through the wine onto the napkin, even the flexor creases of my fingers were visible. While I expect that with Beaujolais (even the good ones), this was worrisome with this wine. The initial flavor of the wine was certainly enhanced by its aroma, but smell is only gonna help it momentarily and this wine needed some help. I found it to be unidimensional and unimaginative. It was not robust, or even supple. The fruit was short-lived and there were sharp distinctions in what should have been smooth transitions between the tasting components. To be fair, it softened a bit after about an hour- but in a way that a smart-mouthed hooker does when she realizes you're gonna part with some fun tix in exchange for services.
At $125 a bottle:
Taste: 7.5/10
Value:
WE:
Incidentally, a fair valued wine is
on my scale. Iow, it's worth what you're paying for it.