Learn to Love Endgames
03-08-2009
, 05:06 PM
Those of you who are new to chess, or are only now seriously interested in improving, have probably sought out advice on how to study. The advice you most likely have received is “Study tactics, tactics, and more tactics”. This succinct advice is very accurate. Improving your tactical ability will take a novice player far. Using USCF ratings as a measure, a typical novice player who works diligently on his tactical ability should certainly be able to reach a 1600 rating and maybe could approach 2000.
However, at some point, a player who primarily studies just tactics is going to hit a wall. When up against opponents of similar or slightly better tactical skill, a player is going to need new resources to win games. One key resource is better endgame knowledge and technique.
I’m no master. My USCF rating peaked at 1822 just before I moved to Las Vegas and quit playing tournament chess. I managed to get my rating into the 1700s while knowingly being a bit negligent in my tactical studying and spending too much time with openings (I simply enjoyed and was motivated to study openings). My rating fluctuated in the 1700s for almost two years. Then, I got motivated to breakout.
I spent a lot of time at the Boylston Chess Club in Boston where lots of masters (USCF 2200+) and experts (2000-2199) played. So, I soaked up a lot of knowledge through conversation even if I wasn’t completely capable of translating it into over-the-board success. One thing I learned from the masters is that endgame skill was usually the way they beat experts. They basically never won because of superior opening knowledge. They would, of course, occasionally win because of better middle game (tactical) play. However, taking small advantages at the beginning of the endgame and turning it into a win was a common route to victory. Masters would often also take small disadvantages and turn them into wins, or at least draws, because of superior endgame knowledge and technique.
So, I decided to study endgames which I had only a basic knowledge of. Despite endgames seeming to be a dry subject to study, I enjoyed it quite a bit. While studying, it felt like chess strategy as a whole was becoming much clearer to me. Middle game and even opening ideas were clarified as I progressed. I think this has to do with what one master told me: chess should be studied backwards; endgames first, middle games second, and openings last. The idea is that you need to know where your strategy is taking you. What’s the point of being a middle game expert if you can’t translate it into an endgame victory? (and likewise for being an opening expert who can’t play in the middle game)
While I was studying endgames, I continued playing in tournaments and would occasionally find myself in endgame situations which seemed far clearer than they would have before my study. Whereas before I might have stumbled around, I now felt I understood the positions well and could construct good plans. However, my opponents, assuming they had about the same playing strength and rating as me, seemed to be stumbling a lot.
This game was played at the 2001 Foxwoods Open (the same weekend I played my first casino poker). My opponent, as the white pieces, gets a small advantage out of the opening and holds it through the middle game. However, my opponent essentially forces us into a rook and pawn endgame by exchanging off pieces (or forcing the exchanges) and then seemed to have no idea how to convert a slim advantage into a win. Instead, he lost his endgame advantage almost immediately and I ground out a win in an 84 move game, 57 moves of which were the rook and pawn endgame.
There don’t appear to be any serious blunders in the opening or middle game. Certainly, neither player hung a piece or even a pawn. Since both of us were Class B players, there are certainly better lines each of us could have taken. Optimal moves were missed by both of us. So, I’m not including alternate variations which a master (or chess engine) could provide. Instead, I’m trying to focus on broader ideas.
This game lasted five and a half hours.
Foxwoods Open; U1800; Round 6 (of 7); 40/2, SD/1
4/15/01
White: Opponent (1681)
Black: Dynasty (1761)
1. Nf3 c5 2. c4 Nf6 3. d4 cxd4 4. Nxd4 Nc6 5. Nc3 e6 6. Bg5 h6 7. Bh4 a6 8. e3 Be7 9. Be2 O-O 10. O-O d5
This game starts out as an old line of the English Opening. I’d played many English games as Black, but hadn’t encountered the very early 3. d4 and was a little out of my book.
My 6…a6 isn’t something I’ve found anywhere. I was concerned about Nbd5 and have found many games where White plays that as early as move 6.
White is a little better developed and seems determined to immediately create endgame weaknesses in Black’s pawn structure.
11. cxd5 exd5 12. Bf3 Be6 13. Nce2 Ne4 14. Nxc6 bxc6 15. Bxe7 Qxe7 16. Bxe4 dxe4
First, White left Black with an isolated Queen pawn. In an endgame, that is indeed a weakness. However, in a middle game, it could be an advantage since Black is left with the stronger pawn in the center.
That dynamic ended quickly as White traded off three minor pieces, two exchanges which he forced. The position results leaves Black with isolated a and c pawns. However, Black’s centralized bishop is going to provide excellent defensive and offensive opportunities.
White still has a small advantage. But, it’s going to take strong endgame technique to eventually exploit that advantage.
17. Qc2 Bd5 18. Nc3 Rfd8 19. Rfd1 Rd6 20. Rd4 f5 21. Rad1 Qb7 22. Nxd5 cxd5 23. Qc5 Rad8 24. b3 Kf7 25. Rb4 Qc6 26. Rc1 Qxc5 27. Rxc5 Ke6
All of White’s moves are designed to put pressure on Black’s pawn center. However, Black is easily able to defend while staying reasonably active. When White trades off the last of the minor pieces and essentially forces a trade of Queens, we arrive at the position above.
White is slightly better here. White’s queenside pawn majority should be used create a passed pawn. Black’s shouldn’t have as easy a time doing the same on the kingside. More importantly, White has the all-important control of the open c-file.
Black is positioned well to defend. Seeing the endgame coming, Black got his King well centralized for immediate defense and future attacking options. In the endgame, the King is a powerful attacking piece. Black’s rooks can work together to prevent an invasion from behind by White’s rooks.
28. Ra5 Rc8
By giving up control of the c-file, White immediately handed over the advantage to Black. White has no real ability to put pressure on Black’s a-pawn (or d-pawn).
White’s strategy was simply wrong. He shouldn’t be trying to capture the a-pawn. He should be trying to trade it off for his b-pawn so that his own a-pawn has an unobstructed path the 8th rank.
From this point on, it will be Black who controls the direction of the game. Black needs to create his own passed pawn on the Kingside, but he can’t be slow or give up control of the c-file (without compensation). White certainly isn’t without resources and Black’s advantage is only a small one.
29. g3 g5 30. Rba4 Rcc6 31. h3 f4 32. gxf4 gxf4 33. Rd4 f3 34. Rd1 Rc2
Black hasn’t yet created a passed pawn. But, he has created an open b-file which his rooks will have much better access to. The white pawn on f2 is the ideal attacking point for Black. Though, a blunt approach isn’t going to work. White’s rooks are still attacking the black d-pawn. So, one of Black’s rooks is still tied down in defense, though it is efficiently doing triple-duty watching the a-pawn and newly isolated h-pawn.
Black simply has more space to maneuver with his control over the c-file and the unobstructed 7th and 8th ranks. Black still holds the advantage, but it’s a tough road ahead against strong play by White.
35. h4 Ke5 36. Kf1 Rc8 37. b4 Rg8 38. h5 Rg5 39. b5 Rxh5 40. Ke1 axb5 41. Rxb5 Rg5
White’s h-pawn was already a potential target. But, advancing it with 35. h4 and then moving his King away from its defense with 36. Kf1 was simply throwing it away. Black’s mobility on the c-file and behind his pawns allows him to quickly attack it.
White does finally create his own passed pawn by trading off the b-pawn for Black’s a-pawn.
Now both sides want to advance their own passed pawn while also defending against their opponent’s passed pawn.
42. Kd2 Rg2 43. Rf1 Ra6 44. Rb2 Ra3 45. Kc1 h5 46. Rh1 Rg5 47. Rh4 Ra8 48. Rc2 Rh8 49. a4 Rg4 50. Rh3 h4 51. a5 Rg6 52. Ra2 Ra6
Both sides have advanced their own passed pawn to the fifth rank and blocked their opponent’s pawn. However, Black certainly stands much better with his centralized King, which can now become more active with White’s rooks tied down. And, of course, Black still has an extra central pawn.
53. Kd2 Kd6 54. Kc3 Kc5 55. Ra1 Rh5 56. Rah1 Rah6 57. Ra1 Kb5 58. Kb3 Rc6
White’s effort to activate his King is going to result in it being permanently cut off by Black’s rook on the c-file. White’s a-pawn can’t be saved if Black chooses to capture it. Now, with White’s King cutoff, Black is very happy to exchange passed pawns and have the game decided by his central pawn majority and better placed King.
59. Rah1 Kxa5 60. Rxh4 Rxh4 61. Rxh4 Kb5 62. Rh5 Rc5 63. Rh1 Rc4 64. Rd1 Kc5 65. Kb2 d4 66. exd4+ Rxd4 67. Re1 Kd6 68. Kc3 Rd3+ 69. Kc2 Kd5
Black has kept White’s King away from the action and moved his King to a supporting position. Now, creating the passed pawn and forcing it to the last rank is a matter of technique. White doesn’t really have defensive resources left.
70. Ra1 Ke5 71. Ra5+ Rd5 72. Ra3 Kf4 73. Rb3 Kg4 74. Re3 Kh3
Black’s last move effectively trades off the pawns. More importantly, it sets up the Queening of Blacks’ f-pawn.
From this position, I didn’t need to do any calculation. Having seen the same basic position in my studies, I knew immediately how to advance the f-pawn.
75. Rxe4 Kg2 76. Rf4 Kxf2 77. Rf8 Kg2 78. Rg8+ Kf1 79. Rf8 f2 80. Kc1 Ke2 81. Re8+ Kf3 82. Rf8+ Ke3 83. Rf7 Rd4 84. Re7+ Kf3
In this position, White resigned.
After 85. Rf7+, Black will respond with 85…Rf4. Then, nothing can stop Black from playing …f1(Q).
For those of you interested in studying endgames, I can recommend a good one volume book which should provide an excellent start.
Just the Facts! Winning Endgame Knowledge in One Volume by GM Lev Alburt and GM Nikolay Krogius is a 408 page book which starts with the most basic position (King and pawn vs. King) and expands systematically through endings with pawns and pieces. If you master the material in just that book, I think you’re likely to be better in endgames than at least 90% of players rated less than 2000.
Other reading materal I can reccomend:
Endgame Cahllenge! by John Hall
This is simply a puzzle book (451 puzzles).
Endgame Strategy by Mikhail Shereshevsky
This is more advanced than the previous two books with chapters including "The principle of the two weaknesses", "Suppressing the opponent's counter-play", and "The 3-2 Queen-side pawn majority".
However, at some point, a player who primarily studies just tactics is going to hit a wall. When up against opponents of similar or slightly better tactical skill, a player is going to need new resources to win games. One key resource is better endgame knowledge and technique.
I’m no master. My USCF rating peaked at 1822 just before I moved to Las Vegas and quit playing tournament chess. I managed to get my rating into the 1700s while knowingly being a bit negligent in my tactical studying and spending too much time with openings (I simply enjoyed and was motivated to study openings). My rating fluctuated in the 1700s for almost two years. Then, I got motivated to breakout.
I spent a lot of time at the Boylston Chess Club in Boston where lots of masters (USCF 2200+) and experts (2000-2199) played. So, I soaked up a lot of knowledge through conversation even if I wasn’t completely capable of translating it into over-the-board success. One thing I learned from the masters is that endgame skill was usually the way they beat experts. They basically never won because of superior opening knowledge. They would, of course, occasionally win because of better middle game (tactical) play. However, taking small advantages at the beginning of the endgame and turning it into a win was a common route to victory. Masters would often also take small disadvantages and turn them into wins, or at least draws, because of superior endgame knowledge and technique.
So, I decided to study endgames which I had only a basic knowledge of. Despite endgames seeming to be a dry subject to study, I enjoyed it quite a bit. While studying, it felt like chess strategy as a whole was becoming much clearer to me. Middle game and even opening ideas were clarified as I progressed. I think this has to do with what one master told me: chess should be studied backwards; endgames first, middle games second, and openings last. The idea is that you need to know where your strategy is taking you. What’s the point of being a middle game expert if you can’t translate it into an endgame victory? (and likewise for being an opening expert who can’t play in the middle game)
While I was studying endgames, I continued playing in tournaments and would occasionally find myself in endgame situations which seemed far clearer than they would have before my study. Whereas before I might have stumbled around, I now felt I understood the positions well and could construct good plans. However, my opponents, assuming they had about the same playing strength and rating as me, seemed to be stumbling a lot.
This game was played at the 2001 Foxwoods Open (the same weekend I played my first casino poker). My opponent, as the white pieces, gets a small advantage out of the opening and holds it through the middle game. However, my opponent essentially forces us into a rook and pawn endgame by exchanging off pieces (or forcing the exchanges) and then seemed to have no idea how to convert a slim advantage into a win. Instead, he lost his endgame advantage almost immediately and I ground out a win in an 84 move game, 57 moves of which were the rook and pawn endgame.
There don’t appear to be any serious blunders in the opening or middle game. Certainly, neither player hung a piece or even a pawn. Since both of us were Class B players, there are certainly better lines each of us could have taken. Optimal moves were missed by both of us. So, I’m not including alternate variations which a master (or chess engine) could provide. Instead, I’m trying to focus on broader ideas.
This game lasted five and a half hours.
Foxwoods Open; U1800; Round 6 (of 7); 40/2, SD/1
4/15/01
White: Opponent (1681)
Black: Dynasty (1761)
1. Nf3 c5 2. c4 Nf6 3. d4 cxd4 4. Nxd4 Nc6 5. Nc3 e6 6. Bg5 h6 7. Bh4 a6 8. e3 Be7 9. Be2 O-O 10. O-O d5
This game starts out as an old line of the English Opening. I’d played many English games as Black, but hadn’t encountered the very early 3. d4 and was a little out of my book.
My 6…a6 isn’t something I’ve found anywhere. I was concerned about Nbd5 and have found many games where White plays that as early as move 6.
White is a little better developed and seems determined to immediately create endgame weaknesses in Black’s pawn structure.
11. cxd5 exd5 12. Bf3 Be6 13. Nce2 Ne4 14. Nxc6 bxc6 15. Bxe7 Qxe7 16. Bxe4 dxe4
First, White left Black with an isolated Queen pawn. In an endgame, that is indeed a weakness. However, in a middle game, it could be an advantage since Black is left with the stronger pawn in the center.
That dynamic ended quickly as White traded off three minor pieces, two exchanges which he forced. The position results leaves Black with isolated a and c pawns. However, Black’s centralized bishop is going to provide excellent defensive and offensive opportunities.
White still has a small advantage. But, it’s going to take strong endgame technique to eventually exploit that advantage.
17. Qc2 Bd5 18. Nc3 Rfd8 19. Rfd1 Rd6 20. Rd4 f5 21. Rad1 Qb7 22. Nxd5 cxd5 23. Qc5 Rad8 24. b3 Kf7 25. Rb4 Qc6 26. Rc1 Qxc5 27. Rxc5 Ke6
All of White’s moves are designed to put pressure on Black’s pawn center. However, Black is easily able to defend while staying reasonably active. When White trades off the last of the minor pieces and essentially forces a trade of Queens, we arrive at the position above.
White is slightly better here. White’s queenside pawn majority should be used create a passed pawn. Black’s shouldn’t have as easy a time doing the same on the kingside. More importantly, White has the all-important control of the open c-file.
Black is positioned well to defend. Seeing the endgame coming, Black got his King well centralized for immediate defense and future attacking options. In the endgame, the King is a powerful attacking piece. Black’s rooks can work together to prevent an invasion from behind by White’s rooks.
28. Ra5 Rc8
By giving up control of the c-file, White immediately handed over the advantage to Black. White has no real ability to put pressure on Black’s a-pawn (or d-pawn).
White’s strategy was simply wrong. He shouldn’t be trying to capture the a-pawn. He should be trying to trade it off for his b-pawn so that his own a-pawn has an unobstructed path the 8th rank.
From this point on, it will be Black who controls the direction of the game. Black needs to create his own passed pawn on the Kingside, but he can’t be slow or give up control of the c-file (without compensation). White certainly isn’t without resources and Black’s advantage is only a small one.
29. g3 g5 30. Rba4 Rcc6 31. h3 f4 32. gxf4 gxf4 33. Rd4 f3 34. Rd1 Rc2
Black hasn’t yet created a passed pawn. But, he has created an open b-file which his rooks will have much better access to. The white pawn on f2 is the ideal attacking point for Black. Though, a blunt approach isn’t going to work. White’s rooks are still attacking the black d-pawn. So, one of Black’s rooks is still tied down in defense, though it is efficiently doing triple-duty watching the a-pawn and newly isolated h-pawn.
Black simply has more space to maneuver with his control over the c-file and the unobstructed 7th and 8th ranks. Black still holds the advantage, but it’s a tough road ahead against strong play by White.
35. h4 Ke5 36. Kf1 Rc8 37. b4 Rg8 38. h5 Rg5 39. b5 Rxh5 40. Ke1 axb5 41. Rxb5 Rg5
White’s h-pawn was already a potential target. But, advancing it with 35. h4 and then moving his King away from its defense with 36. Kf1 was simply throwing it away. Black’s mobility on the c-file and behind his pawns allows him to quickly attack it.
White does finally create his own passed pawn by trading off the b-pawn for Black’s a-pawn.
Now both sides want to advance their own passed pawn while also defending against their opponent’s passed pawn.
42. Kd2 Rg2 43. Rf1 Ra6 44. Rb2 Ra3 45. Kc1 h5 46. Rh1 Rg5 47. Rh4 Ra8 48. Rc2 Rh8 49. a4 Rg4 50. Rh3 h4 51. a5 Rg6 52. Ra2 Ra6
Both sides have advanced their own passed pawn to the fifth rank and blocked their opponent’s pawn. However, Black certainly stands much better with his centralized King, which can now become more active with White’s rooks tied down. And, of course, Black still has an extra central pawn.
53. Kd2 Kd6 54. Kc3 Kc5 55. Ra1 Rh5 56. Rah1 Rah6 57. Ra1 Kb5 58. Kb3 Rc6
White’s effort to activate his King is going to result in it being permanently cut off by Black’s rook on the c-file. White’s a-pawn can’t be saved if Black chooses to capture it. Now, with White’s King cutoff, Black is very happy to exchange passed pawns and have the game decided by his central pawn majority and better placed King.
59. Rah1 Kxa5 60. Rxh4 Rxh4 61. Rxh4 Kb5 62. Rh5 Rc5 63. Rh1 Rc4 64. Rd1 Kc5 65. Kb2 d4 66. exd4+ Rxd4 67. Re1 Kd6 68. Kc3 Rd3+ 69. Kc2 Kd5
Black has kept White’s King away from the action and moved his King to a supporting position. Now, creating the passed pawn and forcing it to the last rank is a matter of technique. White doesn’t really have defensive resources left.
70. Ra1 Ke5 71. Ra5+ Rd5 72. Ra3 Kf4 73. Rb3 Kg4 74. Re3 Kh3
Black’s last move effectively trades off the pawns. More importantly, it sets up the Queening of Blacks’ f-pawn.
From this position, I didn’t need to do any calculation. Having seen the same basic position in my studies, I knew immediately how to advance the f-pawn.
75. Rxe4 Kg2 76. Rf4 Kxf2 77. Rf8 Kg2 78. Rg8+ Kf1 79. Rf8 f2 80. Kc1 Ke2 81. Re8+ Kf3 82. Rf8+ Ke3 83. Rf7 Rd4 84. Re7+ Kf3
In this position, White resigned.
After 85. Rf7+, Black will respond with 85…Rf4. Then, nothing can stop Black from playing …f1(Q).
For those of you interested in studying endgames, I can recommend a good one volume book which should provide an excellent start.
Just the Facts! Winning Endgame Knowledge in One Volume by GM Lev Alburt and GM Nikolay Krogius is a 408 page book which starts with the most basic position (King and pawn vs. King) and expands systematically through endings with pawns and pieces. If you master the material in just that book, I think you’re likely to be better in endgames than at least 90% of players rated less than 2000.
Other reading materal I can reccomend:
Endgame Cahllenge! by John Hall
This is simply a puzzle book (451 puzzles).
Endgame Strategy by Mikhail Shereshevsky
This is more advanced than the previous two books with chapters including "The principle of the two weaknesses", "Suppressing the opponent's counter-play", and "The 3-2 Queen-side pawn majority".
03-08-2009
, 06:07 PM
03-08-2009
, 06:26 PM
03-08-2009
, 08:29 PM
03-10-2009
, 05:30 AM
Nice game and commentary Dynasty.
I think I played at Foxwoods 2001 too, one of my games was against Joel Benjamin's father.
Has anyone read 100 Endgames You Must Know by Jesus De La Villa?
That's probably the next chess book I'll get.
PS I used to be known as the worst endgame player at my chess club
I think I played at Foxwoods 2001 too, one of my games was against Joel Benjamin's father.
Has anyone read 100 Endgames You Must Know by Jesus De La Villa?
That's probably the next chess book I'll get.
PS I used to be known as the worst endgame player at my chess club
Last edited by jontsef; 03-10-2009 at 05:36 AM.
04-19-2009
, 05:50 AM
This game was played about a month prior to the game in the original post. When the endgame arrives, I have a clear advantage. But, it used to be the type of endgame I’d dread. If studying endgames did nothing else, it at least gave me the confidence to squeeze any advantage I had as best I could and go for the win- even if it took 30+ moves like in this game to do it. Before, I might be more worried about blowing the game than I would be focused on actually winning.
Unfortunately, this game has blunders on both sides. But, I still look back on my endgame play as an important learning experience.
Paramount; Round 2 (of 10); 40/2, 20/1…
3/19/01
White: Opponent (1726)
Black: Dynasty (1754)
1. e4 c5 2. Nf3 d6 3. d4 cxd4 4. Nxd4 Nf6 5. Nc3 g6 6. Be2 Bg7 7. Be3 Nc6 8 Qd2 0-0 9. 0-0-0
Seeing White play a combination of Be2 (usually signally a quiet setup against the Dragon) and 0-0-0 (signaling the exact opposite) was new to me. I intuitively believed his attack may be slow.
9…Nxd4 10 Bxd4 Be6 11. h4 Rc8 12. Kb1
I wanted my light-squared bishop on the more active e6 square rather than d7. So, the exchange of knights seemed natural. It also seemed to oddly place White’s dark square bishop after the recapture. But, I also miscalculated an immediate follow-up.
12…Rxc3? 13. Qxc3 Nxe4 14. Qd3 Nf6 15. h5 Qa5 16. a3 Rc8
My most frustrating problem as a player is that I too often miss the obvious response by my opponent. When I played the blunder 12…Rxc3, I just plain missed the recapture with the Queen would hold everything together (including guarding the f2 pawn from capture by Black’s knight on e4).
Fortunately, the exchange sacrifice on c3 is usually so strong in the Dragon that even when it’s a blunder, it’s not a hopeless one. I picked up a pawn and White’s pieces now seem more oddly misplaced with the Queen on d3.
17. Bc3?! Qc7 18. Qd4? Nxh5 19. Qe3 Bxc3 20. Qxc3 Qxc3 21. bxc3 Nf4 22. Bf3 Rxc3 23. Kb2
White blundered severely with 18. Qd4? It simply allows Black to win two pawns while trading off the Queens and dark squared bishops. Presumably, he simply missed that Nxh5 also covers the g7 square.
17. Bc3?! also appears t be a blunder. I was sorely tempted to play 17...Rxc3 but couldn’t see how a second exchange sacrifice could be sound if it didn’t lead to mate. However, it appears strong. I failed to see everything that 19…Ne4 would threaten.
(17…Rxc3 18. Qxc3 Qxc3 19. bxc3 Ne4 (threatening knight forks on both f2 and c3) 20. hxg6 hxg6 21. Rde1 Bxc3 22. Reg1 Nxf2) and Black has three pawns for the two exchange sacrifices and much more active pieces.
23…Rc5 24. Rd4 Nd5 25. Rdh4 Rb5+ 26. Ka1 Nf6 27. Rb4 Rxb4 28. axb4 Bd5 29. Bxd5 Nxd5 30. Rh4
So, this is the endgame Black must win. He has a centralized and active knight and seven pawns, all of which are currently safe from capture but none of which are advanced more than one square. I was particularly concerned about the safety of my a- and b-pawns. My King will be of no help there.
White has four pawns, the more powerful rook, and several half-open files to attack Black's pawns, particularly the a-pawn.
Black’s plan is simple: advance his pawns supported by his King, create one or more passed pawns, push a pawn to the eight rank, and win.
The difficulty in making that plan work is that White’s rook will be trying to create weaknesses in Black’s pawn structure and then either capture the weak pawn or tie down Black’s King and/or knight in defense.
30…Kg7 31. Kb2 h5 32. Kb3 Kf6 33. c4 Nc7 34. Rf4+ Ke6 35. Re4+ Kd7 36. Rf4 f5 37. Rf3 Ke6 38. Kc3 Kf6 39. c5 d5 40. Kd2 Nb5 41. Rb3
Black has made some good progress. He’s begun advancing his pawns, though he’s inevitably created weaknesses in his pawn structure. His knight on b5 has found a dual defense role of blockading White’s queenside pawns and defending the far-flung a-pawn (as well as denying White’s rook immediate access to the a-file).
White has gotten his King into a defensive position. But, his rook moves have been slow. While, I’m sure White never expected to capture a pawn quickly, he didn’t seem to be prepared to maneuver behind Black’s position once the opportunity presented itself. Now he’s got to take a slow route to the a-file and penetration.
41…e5 42. Rb1 f4 43. Ra1 Kf5 44. Ra5 a6 45. c6 bxc6 46. Rxa6
This was the type of position I was concerned about but which was also inevitable. White has gotten his rook behind Black’s pawns and is immediately attacking Black’s weak backwards pawns. At this point, I was particularly wary of losing my e-, f-, or g-pawns and splitting my pawn structure into two islands (of course, losing the c-pawn would be a total disaster).
Black is still winning. In fact, his position is better than it was when the endgame began sixteen moves ago. But, blunderous play by Black now could easily turn a winning position into a losing one.
46…Nd4 47. Kd3 g5 48. Ra8 h4 49. Rf8+
White would be more than happy to draw with perpetual checks.
Putting the King in front of my pawns is the easiest way to avoid checks. But, during the game, I wasn’t confident in playing 49…Kg4 though it now seems best. I wasn’t able to calculate clearly after 49…Kg4 50. f3+ Nxf3 51. gxf3 Kxf3 52. Rf6. I simply didn’t want to give White any counter-play by allowing him to capture on c6 and then Queen his b-pawn.
49…Ke6 50. Rg8 Kf6 51. Rf8+ Ke7 52. Rg8 Ne6 53. Rh8
Instead, I was able to see this safer approach which kept all my pawns defended and my opponent’s rook at bay for the moment. Though part of my decision was an inability to see how strong 49…Kg4 would have been, another part is simply that I’m more comfortable denying my opponent any attacking chances and advancing my plan more slowly.
53…e4+ 54. Kd2 Kd6 55. Rc8 d4 56. Rb8 Kd5 57. Rb6 g4 58. Rb7 g3 59. fxg3 hxg3 60. Re7? f3
0-1
White’s rook moves from 55 to 57 aren’t too logical. He’s seeing something that’s either not there or not important. The result is that his rook is out of position and Black’s pawns advance quickly to win the game.
After 60…f3, nothing can stop Black from Queening a pawn on g1.
I'm currently going through a 1,000+ tactical problem book. When, I'm done that, I think I'm going to go through a more advanced endgame book which came out after I stopped playing tournament chess. Based on every review I've read, it's far and away the best one-volume endgame book available.
Unfortunately, this game has blunders on both sides. But, I still look back on my endgame play as an important learning experience.
Paramount; Round 2 (of 10); 40/2, 20/1…
3/19/01
White: Opponent (1726)
Black: Dynasty (1754)
1. e4 c5 2. Nf3 d6 3. d4 cxd4 4. Nxd4 Nf6 5. Nc3 g6 6. Be2 Bg7 7. Be3 Nc6 8 Qd2 0-0 9. 0-0-0
Seeing White play a combination of Be2 (usually signally a quiet setup against the Dragon) and 0-0-0 (signaling the exact opposite) was new to me. I intuitively believed his attack may be slow.
9…Nxd4 10 Bxd4 Be6 11. h4 Rc8 12. Kb1
I wanted my light-squared bishop on the more active e6 square rather than d7. So, the exchange of knights seemed natural. It also seemed to oddly place White’s dark square bishop after the recapture. But, I also miscalculated an immediate follow-up.
12…Rxc3? 13. Qxc3 Nxe4 14. Qd3 Nf6 15. h5 Qa5 16. a3 Rc8
My most frustrating problem as a player is that I too often miss the obvious response by my opponent. When I played the blunder 12…Rxc3, I just plain missed the recapture with the Queen would hold everything together (including guarding the f2 pawn from capture by Black’s knight on e4).
Fortunately, the exchange sacrifice on c3 is usually so strong in the Dragon that even when it’s a blunder, it’s not a hopeless one. I picked up a pawn and White’s pieces now seem more oddly misplaced with the Queen on d3.
17. Bc3?! Qc7 18. Qd4? Nxh5 19. Qe3 Bxc3 20. Qxc3 Qxc3 21. bxc3 Nf4 22. Bf3 Rxc3 23. Kb2
White blundered severely with 18. Qd4? It simply allows Black to win two pawns while trading off the Queens and dark squared bishops. Presumably, he simply missed that Nxh5 also covers the g7 square.
17. Bc3?! also appears t be a blunder. I was sorely tempted to play 17...Rxc3 but couldn’t see how a second exchange sacrifice could be sound if it didn’t lead to mate. However, it appears strong. I failed to see everything that 19…Ne4 would threaten.
(17…Rxc3 18. Qxc3 Qxc3 19. bxc3 Ne4 (threatening knight forks on both f2 and c3) 20. hxg6 hxg6 21. Rde1 Bxc3 22. Reg1 Nxf2) and Black has three pawns for the two exchange sacrifices and much more active pieces.
23…Rc5 24. Rd4 Nd5 25. Rdh4 Rb5+ 26. Ka1 Nf6 27. Rb4 Rxb4 28. axb4 Bd5 29. Bxd5 Nxd5 30. Rh4
So, this is the endgame Black must win. He has a centralized and active knight and seven pawns, all of which are currently safe from capture but none of which are advanced more than one square. I was particularly concerned about the safety of my a- and b-pawns. My King will be of no help there.
White has four pawns, the more powerful rook, and several half-open files to attack Black's pawns, particularly the a-pawn.
Black’s plan is simple: advance his pawns supported by his King, create one or more passed pawns, push a pawn to the eight rank, and win.
The difficulty in making that plan work is that White’s rook will be trying to create weaknesses in Black’s pawn structure and then either capture the weak pawn or tie down Black’s King and/or knight in defense.
30…Kg7 31. Kb2 h5 32. Kb3 Kf6 33. c4 Nc7 34. Rf4+ Ke6 35. Re4+ Kd7 36. Rf4 f5 37. Rf3 Ke6 38. Kc3 Kf6 39. c5 d5 40. Kd2 Nb5 41. Rb3
Black has made some good progress. He’s begun advancing his pawns, though he’s inevitably created weaknesses in his pawn structure. His knight on b5 has found a dual defense role of blockading White’s queenside pawns and defending the far-flung a-pawn (as well as denying White’s rook immediate access to the a-file).
White has gotten his King into a defensive position. But, his rook moves have been slow. While, I’m sure White never expected to capture a pawn quickly, he didn’t seem to be prepared to maneuver behind Black’s position once the opportunity presented itself. Now he’s got to take a slow route to the a-file and penetration.
41…e5 42. Rb1 f4 43. Ra1 Kf5 44. Ra5 a6 45. c6 bxc6 46. Rxa6
This was the type of position I was concerned about but which was also inevitable. White has gotten his rook behind Black’s pawns and is immediately attacking Black’s weak backwards pawns. At this point, I was particularly wary of losing my e-, f-, or g-pawns and splitting my pawn structure into two islands (of course, losing the c-pawn would be a total disaster).
Black is still winning. In fact, his position is better than it was when the endgame began sixteen moves ago. But, blunderous play by Black now could easily turn a winning position into a losing one.
46…Nd4 47. Kd3 g5 48. Ra8 h4 49. Rf8+
White would be more than happy to draw with perpetual checks.
Putting the King in front of my pawns is the easiest way to avoid checks. But, during the game, I wasn’t confident in playing 49…Kg4 though it now seems best. I wasn’t able to calculate clearly after 49…Kg4 50. f3+ Nxf3 51. gxf3 Kxf3 52. Rf6. I simply didn’t want to give White any counter-play by allowing him to capture on c6 and then Queen his b-pawn.
49…Ke6 50. Rg8 Kf6 51. Rf8+ Ke7 52. Rg8 Ne6 53. Rh8
Instead, I was able to see this safer approach which kept all my pawns defended and my opponent’s rook at bay for the moment. Though part of my decision was an inability to see how strong 49…Kg4 would have been, another part is simply that I’m more comfortable denying my opponent any attacking chances and advancing my plan more slowly.
53…e4+ 54. Kd2 Kd6 55. Rc8 d4 56. Rb8 Kd5 57. Rb6 g4 58. Rb7 g3 59. fxg3 hxg3 60. Re7? f3
0-1
White’s rook moves from 55 to 57 aren’t too logical. He’s seeing something that’s either not there or not important. The result is that his rook is out of position and Black’s pawns advance quickly to win the game.
After 60…f3, nothing can stop Black from Queening a pawn on g1.
I'm currently going through a 1,000+ tactical problem book. When, I'm done that, I think I'm going to go through a more advanced endgame book which came out after I stopped playing tournament chess. Based on every review I've read, it's far and away the best one-volume endgame book available.
04-19-2009
, 09:32 AM
My quick two cents without analyzing too much:
position after move 30: In my opinion, it is black that has to play very accurately here in order to save the day, and I think it is practically no chances for black to win this if white plays well. Of course I might be missing something, that's the opinion after a quick look. Looks like white's pawns will advance faster than black pawns..
position after move 41: I cannot believe how bad did white play this. Now you are 100% winning, and won very convincingly and nicely in the end, good job
position after move 30: In my opinion, it is black that has to play very accurately here in order to save the day, and I think it is practically no chances for black to win this if white plays well. Of course I might be missing something, that's the opinion after a quick look. Looks like white's pawns will advance faster than black pawns..
position after move 41: I cannot believe how bad did white play this. Now you are 100% winning, and won very convincingly and nicely in the end, good job
